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The Fight for Everest 1924
Mallory, Irvine and the quest for Everest
Synopsis
In 1924 Mount Everest remained unclimbed. Two British expeditions had already tackled what was known to be the highest mountain on Earth. The first, in 1921, found a route to the base. The second, in 1922, attempted the summit, reaching a record height of 27,300 feet before retreating. Two years later, a team that included Colonel E.F. Norton, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine returned to the Himalaya.
Armed with greater knowledge and experience, confidence was high. But they were still climbing into the unknown. How high could they climb without supplementary oxygen? Would the cumbersome oxygen equipment help them climb higher? Could they succeed where others had failed, and make the first ascent of the highest mountain on earth? Before they could find out, tragedy struck - George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, climbing high on the mountain, vanished into the clouds.
First published in 1925, The Fight for Everest 1924 is the official record of this third expedition to Everest. The compelling narrative by Norton and other expedition members, and Mallory's vivid letters home, present a gripping picture of life in the Himalaya. Notes and observations from the entire team show how far knowledge of the mountain and of high-altitude climbing had advanced by 1924, and make recommendations for future Everest attempts.
As well as the full original text and illustrations, this edition reproduces some of Norton's superb pencil sketches and watercolours along with previously unpublished materials from his private archive. These include original planning documents from the expedition, Mallory's last note to Norton, and a moving letter to Norton from Mallory's widow. Together, they add up to one of the most fascinating mountaineering books ever written.
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What Reviewers Are Saying
'With a preface by family members and a foreword by Doug Scott, this is a book to be admired, as well as read from cover to cover. The modern font makes it more readable for today's market and brings a classic mountaineering book to a new audience as well as us older readers and collectors.' - Colin Hilton
'If Everest's reputation has become tarnished and diminished to one of high-altitude tourism then read this book and recapture the unadulterated essence of the challenge.' - Mike Jacob, 2016 Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal